laura paddles delmarva

Circumnavigating 600 miles of Delmarva's shorelines


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Lambert Shellfish to Morley’s Wharf

I’m closing in on completing all the shorelines around the Virginia portion of Delmarva! Today’s paddle was on the lower shore, Chesapeake side, where there are very few public access points. For years, I wasn’t sure how I was going to complete this section without paddling some 25-30 miles in one day. I had searched for Airbnb properties to rent, but most were way out of my price range.

Luckily, through my work with Virginia Water Trails, I got the opportunity to tour an oyster farm in Machipongo, located at the mouth of Hungars Creek, about halfway between Morley’s Wharf and Cape Charles. The owner, Alex, welcomed me back to launch my kayak there, so today I did just that!

I also had a paddling buddy today, my friend Lisa, who paddled the stretch from Oyster to Red Bank with me about two years ago. We left Berlin around 6:15 this morning and headed straight to Lambert Shellfish, which was about an hour and 45 minutes away. We unloaded our kayaks and gear and then drove to Morley’s Wharf. I had pre-arranged a shuttle through a local company called Wave Riders, so we left Lisa’s truck at the boat ramp and our driver picked us up right on time and took us back down to our kayaks.

We launched right near some of the long lines of thousands of oysters (read more about this oyster farm here!) and started our journey north. Not 5 minutes after we launched, we started spotting tons of stings rays and schools of stripers. I couldn’t believe how clear the water was and how well we could see into the water – it also could have been my new polarized sunglasses 🙂 The bay bottom was covered in some kind of sea grass, and between the sting rays, the stripers, needlefish, and crabs, the bay felt so healthy and full of life! And as we gazed around, the various shades of turquoise colors in the water and the white sandy beaches made me feel like I was somewhere in the Caribbean – it was breathtaking.

Despite the calm winds and beautiful weather, we barely saw any boat traffic for almost the entire trip. And although we did see a few families enjoying the beaches in front of their bayfront homes here and there, this part of the bay felt like a hidden gem.

I guess one reason we didn’t see many boats was because of the shoals. It was low-ish tide when we paddled through, and in some areas we had to strategically maneuver around so we didn’t run aground. There was only one point where I needed to get out and drag my boat a little, but I wasn’t complaining – the scenery and the opportunity to stretch my legs was perfect.

As we continued on up the coast, we saw a nice variety of houses, along with a wide variety of shoreline protection techniques. Rip rap, bulkhead, two-tiered bulkhead, groins, breakwaters, and natural shorelines. Our favorite to paddle by is of course natural shoreline. Not only is it the most environmentally friendly and aesthetically pleasing, it also absorbs any wave energy. In previous posts I’ve talked about how I hate paddling by bulkheaded land if there’s any breeze, because the waves just bounce off the wall, making for an odd, bouncy current that jostles my kayak around in unpredictable ways. I call it the “backslosh.”

An interesting feature of this trip was the giant tower just offshore from Silver Beach. We had to do some research later and found it to be a navigation aid to freighters headed for Baltimore – very cool!

Right before we headed into Occohannock Creek, we took a quick break on a rugged beach. We spotted what we think was an eagle nest, as well as fresh deer tracks that led right into the water – bummed we may have missed a swimming deer sighting! We also collected a huge amount of plastic debris in less than 10 minutes, which Lisa stowed away in her hatch to dispose of later.

While the wind and tide were helping us the whole way today, as soon as we turned into the creek, it seemed like the wind shifted and we were paddling directly against it. I also didn’t feel fatigued at all until I spotted Morley’s Wharf in the distance. It’s something about seeing the finish line that always makes me tired, particularly when it’s a good 1.5 miles away still!

Once we were off the water, we packed up, and celebrated our 14.2 miles with a stop at the Great Machipongo Clam Shack. This place is a gem – not the tourist trap I always thought it was. I’ve been to the clam shack three times now and have never been disappointed by their fish and shrimp tacos. I also love how it was originally a McDonalds, but has been converted into the clam shack for the last 25 years. Oh, it’s also for sale, so if anyone is looking for a new venture, maybe this is your chance!

I’ve now paddled 542 miles of my ~600 mile goal. Here’s the path we took today:


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Port Mahon to Collins Landing

I am happy to report that I paddled with a GROUP of people on my most recent trip! The sections that I have left in the upper Delaware Bay have always intimidated me. Tidal currents can be very strong, and the area is very remote, so I was on a mission to find other experienced paddlers to join me.

I recently attended a women’s sea kayaking course through Cross Currents Sea Kayaking. The instructors were awesome! If you ever have the chance to take a course with Paula Hubbard, Marilyn Cooper, or Sammantha Magsino, do it. I learned new techniques, refined some techniques, and learned how to connect with other paddlers like me. The whole course was a big boost of confidence.

Shortly after the course, I posted in the Chesapeake Paddler’s Association facebook group, looking for others to paddle with. Only two weeks later, and I found myself planning a 16.5-mile stretch in the Delaware Bay with four other kayakers, all who are more experienced than me. They evaluated charts and max flood times, and decided which direction to paddle and when to launch on our selected day (July 22).

With my busy mom schedule, and all of my busy mom friends, I’m used to it being VERY difficult to align schedules to do anything fun. But the stars really aligned on Saturday and I was thrilled that even the weather and air quality were shaping up to work out in our favor.

I met up with Mike, Samm, Adam, and Gail at the Port Mahon boat ramp at 7:30 on Saturday morning. I had met both Mike and Samm before, and I was excited to paddle with all of them. We unloaded our kayaks and gear, and then did the car shuffle to leave 3 cars at Collins Landing. We launched around slack tide and started our northward journey. The last forecast I looked at indicated that the winds would be 5-10 knots out of the NW, but it seemed like it was more of a northerly wind, closer to 10 knots. In other words, it was a little choppy and we were paddling directly against it. I appreciated Mike asking me shortly after we launched if I was okay with the conditions. I said I was fine because I was with them! If I had been paddling alone, I probably would have bailed in those conditions. Not because I couldn’t handle it, but just because I wouldn’t have felt safe paddling alone.

Because it was choppy, I opted not to take my phone out to take photos while we were paddling, but I’ll do my best at remembering and describing what we saw.

Aside from passing the tiny village of Woodland Beach, I think the entire 16.5-mile journey was along undeveloped shoreline. I don’t remember seeing a single structure. There did appear to be remnants of structures, like a pile of broken concrete slabs and another 50-yard wall made out of large concrete blocks, but that was seriously it. We saw a handful of eagles, a sting ray, and of course some horseshoe crabs, but wildlife seemed scarce as well. But it was beautiful. I always say the Delaware Bayshore is Delaware’s most underrated and under-appreciated region.

Another interesting thing to note about this trip was the occasional small, standing wave, or small sections of waves that were breaking differently. There are several creeks that feed into the bay, so our assumption was that there were some small shoals or sand bars just outside the mouth of the creeks that caused this. Between the headwind that was opposing the tide, and the shoals underneath, it kept things interesting. Samm even commented that the conditions were perfect for keeping things fun and interesting, but not too challenging – I agreed.

We stopped at two different beaches to stretch, eat lunch, and check out the charts that Samm and Mike had brought. I learned some navigation skills years ago when I worked on boats (you know, which actual maps and a compass), but I haven’t really used those skills while kayaking, so I enjoyed looking at their charts and figuring out our location. From now on, I plan on bringing a laminated chart with me when paddling new areas. I’ve become too reliant on my phone to navigate these days!

I’d say somewhere around the 14-15 mile mark, I was beat and ready to be done. I kept up with the rest of the crew, but I was really starting to feel it. My arms (and my neck… strange?) were getting sore. Also around the 14-15 mile mark, Mike asked me if I wanted to practice some rescues since I don’t get the chance to very often. While I so appreciated the offer, and practicing rescues is always a good thing, I declined the offer because I was wiped. Gail also chimed in and said she was ready to be done since she had a long drive home. Hopefully I’ll get another chance soon to practice rescues!

When we finally pulled into Collins Landing, I looked at Strava and saw that we had completed 16.6 miles. It did take us 6 hours, but that included some beach breaks and paddling against the wind the whole time!

Adding such a long stretch to my map later that night made me feel so accomplished! I had stressed about the upper Delaware Bay portions, but now I’m excited to go back and finish soon. Here’s the path we took:

Finally, I am so grateful to Mike, Samm, Adam, and Gail for making the trek out to the Delaware Bay and paddling with me. I hope to paddle with them again soon!


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Upper Chesapeake Part 3: Ingleside to Rock Hall

The last planned leg for my little Kent County getaway was just a 6.5-mile stretch from Eastern Neck National Wildlife Refuge (the launch site is known as Ingleside) to Ferry Beach in Rock Hall. When I checked the weather before going to bed the night before, I saw there was a 20% chance of storms starting at 8 am, and since the 20% chance the day before turned into a huge downpour, I took it seriously. I set my alarm for 5:30 in an attempt to paddle and be off the water by 8 am.

Luckily, when I check the weather again in the morning, the storm window was pushed later into the afternoon. I decided to go back to bed until 7 since I was still exhausted from the day before. AMA and I got to have coffee together before I packed up and headed out, and she agreed to meet me at the beach in Rock Hall around 10:15.

I headed down to the refuge and launched at Ingleside by 8:30 am. There was absolutely no wind and I cruised through this stretch very quickly. I wasn’t too sore or tired from my 20 miles the day before, only my hands hurt a little from gripping my paddle all day.

I again saw an interesting variety of houses, dodged a few work boats, and pulled up on the beach in Rock Hall just before 10:15. Another perfect timing.

I didn’t take many photos on this leg, probably because I was kind of over taking photos since I took so many the day before. I didn’t see much out of the ordinary, except a cool RV campground that was right on the water and a good handful of bald eagles.

I paddled 6.5 miles in an hour and 40 minutes – that’s 3.9 mph, a RECORD average speed for me! Here’s the path I took:

Once I got to the beach, I locked my kayak to the same gazebo. AMA and I then explored Eastern Neck National Wildlife Refuge by foot, but the bugs were out in full force so we cut our visit short and headed to lunch in Rock Hall! After lunch it was time to load my kayak, say goodbye and head home.

I felt so very accomplished as I drove home. The unpredictable weather had me worried I wasn’t going to complete all the miles I wanted to in this trip, but somehow I made it work! I logged a total of 27 miles, connecting legs I had previously completed at Eastern Neck NWR and Still Pond and Betterton Beach.

I am also SO GRATEFUL to have company on this trip, and a free shuttle service so I didn’t have to ride my bike or do out-and-back trips. It really was great to spend some one-on-one time with my aunt, catching up on life and reminiscing about years ago. I’m sure my mom was looking down and smiling 🙂

I have now paddled 510 miles of my ~635 mile goal! I’m now setting a goal to finish before my 40th birthday. Less than 4 months left!


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Upper Chesapeake Part 2: Still Pond to Fairlee Creek

After AMA and I checked into the Airbnb, we decided to take a stroll into downtown Chestertown. I wanted to put off paddling another leg until 5 or 6 pm since there was a chance of pop-up storms in the afternoon, so we had some time to kill. We walked out the front door and it started drizzling. Our Airbnb host offered us umbrellas so we took her up on the offer.

We walked about 100 yards down the driveway and into the street and it began to DOWNPOUR. We quickly decided to head back to the house and just chill out. Good decision. It poured for a good half hour and thundered a little. I was glad I chose to wait a while to paddle!

While we were in the house just chatting, I finalized my plan for my sunset paddle. I would drive up to Still Pond Station Park, launch, and paddle down to Fairlee Creek, this time ending on the beach at the restaurant I had seen that morning, thus avoiding the strong currents and cutting my paddle short by about a mile. AMA agreed to meet me at the restaurant beach around 8 pm.

I had already paddled north out of Still Pond Station last year, so I knew what the launch looked like. My plan was to check the radar one more time before I launched, just to be sure all the storms were gone for the day, but I had zero signal. I did my best to analyze the clouds and listen for thunder, and all seemed well so I began unloading my kayak. Holy COW it rained a lot earlier! I must’ve had two gallons of water in my cockpit! Luckily, I had my bilge pump handy to get the water out before launching.

While it was absolutely beautiful paddling into the sunset, it was also HOT! I was paddling directly into the sun and sweating more than I did during the peak heat of the afternoon.

I didn’t let the heat get to me too much though. I rarely paddle at sunset. In fact, I rarely even SEE the sunset! Ever since I had Patrick, it’s always dinner time, homework time, bath time, bed time… some kind of TIME that doesn’t free me up too often to see the sunset. So needless to say, it was a real treat to paddle at sunset.

The earth science nerd in me was intrigued by the size of the pebbles and rocks on the beaches I passed on this trip. Actual rocks and pebbles, not sand and marsh mud like the lower Chesapeake. The further up the bay, the larger the rocks and sediment!

Another notable thing from this trip was the number of sting rays I saw! I didn’t count, but it was in the dozens. I saw their wing tips breaking the surface, and sometimes they splashed around. In fact, one of them splashed so close to my kayak that I screamed! I had flashbacks to my encounter near Mockhorn Island back in 2015 when I stirred up -what I think was- a sting ray in about 6 inches of water. That one actually smacked the hull of my boat!

The first half of this trip was pretty chill and I felt like I was making good time. But as I rounded a point of land and realized that Fairlee Creek was still a good 4 miles away, I felt run down. I was ready to be done. I paddled about 3 miles across open water, and if you have read prior blog posts of mine, you know I hate open water. It’s boring and it feels like I’m making no progress because there’s no benchmarks or stationary scenery to judge my progress. But I’m here writing this post now, so clearly I made it to Fairlee Creek without any issue.

As I rounded the last little corner of land, I saw the restaurant (vacant – it is closed on Wednesdays), the beach, and AMA sitting at a picnic table. Again, good timing.

Here’s the 8-mile path I took:

I pulled up onto the beach right before hitting the weird currents, and snapped a photo of the sign warning people of the strong currents!

Now, AMA greeted me and explained that the restaurant was actually part of a private, gated yacht club, and a nice man let her in once she explained why she was there. All good, right? Not exactly. I then asked her, “how will we get back in when we return with my car to pick up my kayak?” Welp, that was the golden question neither of us had the answer to. I assumed everything would be fine and another nice person would let us back in, so I went ahead and locked my kayak to a picnic pavilion. I considered carrying my kayak outside of the gated area, but it was about a half mile walk – way too far to drag a kayak!

As we got in the car and started heading out, we stopped and asked a maintenance worker if he could let us back in when we returned “in about 20 minutes.” He agreed to stay a few minutes past the end of his shift to let us back in. Perfect.

Aaaannnd not perfect. We exited the yacht club, I opened google maps, and realized Still Pond Station (where my car was still parked), was 25 minutes away! It was almost 8:30 p.m. and we wouldn’t even be back until almost 9:30! We decided to press on, thinking “oh we’ll figure this out somehow.”

AMA drove me back to my car and followed me back to the yacht club. The gate was locked without a soul around. I called to see if they had any after-hours phone number, but couldn’t get ahold of anyone. I really didn’t want to leave my kayak there overnight because it would mess my plans up for a morning paddle. I seriously considered trying to carry it the half mile. We decided to walk around, in hopes of finding help. LUCKILY a nice man that was living on his boat was throwing something away in a dumpster near the front gate. I ran over to him and explained our situation. He agreed to grab his gate key and let us in. Thank goodness! I offered him money but he refused. We drove down to my kayak, got it loaded, and headed back to Chestertown.

By the time we got to Chestertown it was just after 10 p.m., we were hungry, and everything was closed for dinner. We ended up getting salads and snacks from Royal Farms and heading back to the house. After dinner and a shower, I slept so well that night!


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Upper Chesapeake Part 1: Fairlee Creek to Rock Hall

I finally got to log some miles in 2023! But before I get to that, a quick life update. I left my nearly 17-year career with Delaware State Parks back in February! For the last 10 years, I managed the Indian River Life-Saving Station Museum and all the interpretive programming at Delaware Seashore State Park. Making the decision to leave was hard (I literally went to therapy over it), but it was the right decision. My side-hustle has been growing and I was eager to start the next chapter. But I owe my passion for paddling all to that first summer I interned at the park in 2006, when I led kayak ecotours 4 days/week all summer long.

I’m now totally self-employed and it’s amazing! I make my own schedule and now I have so much more time and flexibility to do things with my family and to do things for ME! Like leaving town for two days to log some serious mileage.

Up until mid-June, I really hadn’t spent ANY time in Kent County, MD, but I took a women’s sea kayaking course in June off the Sassafras River. I spent the weekend in a tiny town called Kennedyville and enjoyed the rolling hills and rural scenery for two days. Spending that weekend inspired me to paddle more legs in the upper Chesapeake, but since it’s nearly 2.5 hours from home, it made more sense to do an overnight trip and paddle several legs, rather than driving up there 3 separate times for day trips.

I was so lucky to have a buddy join me for the non-paddling portions of my trip – my Aunt Margaret Ann (a.k.a. “AMA”). She was so kind to drive over from the western shore to shuttle me between paddles and keep me company at the Airbnb I booked in Chestertown. It was also really fun to catch up – something we don’t do nearly enough!

The first leg I paddled was the longest – a 12 mile stretch between Fairlee Creek and Rock Hall. I go up on Wednesday morning at 4:30 to drive up to Fairlee to launch. I arranged for AMA to meet me in Rock Hall around 11:30 a.m. so I would have a ride back to Fairlee.

I launched just before 7:30 and the winds were totally calm. Paddling up Fairlee Creek was like paddling on a mirror and effortlessly gliding through the water. But as I got closer to the mouth of the creek and into the bay, I noticed the incoming tide was RUSHING through the small inlet. It wasn’t choppy, but I could see some wacky little currents. I powered through with a little moment of panic when I thought I was about to fall in, but the funky currents didn’t last long, and before I knew it, I was in the calm waters of the bay. I glanced behind me at the restaurant at the mouth of the creek and it had a giant sign that said “NO SWIMMING. STRONG CURRENTS.” Yes, that sign would be correct. No way would I go swimming there, paddling was hard enough!

Since Kent County has a bit more elevation than most of the Delmarva peninsula, I was expecting to see some small cliffs most of the way, rather than marshes. While this was accurate, I was also not expecting to see as many beaches as I did! I even pulled over on a beach to take a 30-minute call for work! Yes, it was most definitely private property, but I stayed below the high tide line, so technically I wasn’t trespassing.

Another thing that struck me as interested was the number of cool houses along the way. Lots of variety in architecture, from rustic, overgrown bungalows to giant mansions with manicured lawns. Or as AMA describes them, “conference centers” LOL! I also spotted this cool old watch tower. Not idea what/who would’ve used it, but it was cool looking.

As I closed in on Rock Hall, I felt pretty accomplished. I haven’t paddled many long distances yet this season and I wasn’t even all that tired. I felt like I could’ve kept going on south to Ingleside. But since I made arrangements for AMA to meet me, and there were pop-up thunderstorms predicted for the afternoon, I stuck with the original plan to end in Rock Hall.

Here’s the 12.6-mile path I took:

Once I pulled up on “Ferry Beach“, AMA pulled in shortly after – perfect timing! I loaded my paddle, PFD, and other accessories into her car, and locked my kayak to one of the gazebos on the beach. From there, AMA drove me back to Fairlee Landing so I could take my car back down to Rock Hall to grab my kayak.

We had a leisurely afternoon exploring the Rock Hall area and grabbing some lunch. After that, we headed to Chestertown to check into the Airbnb. It was a newer listing so it was super affordable and the hosts were lovely. AMA and I had the entire upstairs of an 1870s historic home. It was two bedrooms, bathrooms, and sitting area, with a tiny glimpse of the Chester River through the trees, all for $100/night ($180 with airbnb and cleaning fees). Not bad!

See Part 2 for the next leg I completed that evening!


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Still Pond to Betterton to Grove Neck

I didn’t take my normal September Staycation this year. Once Paddlefest was all wrapped up (it was a huge success!), I was free to take some time off. Patrick and I flew out to visit my sister in Breckenridge Colorado for 5 days, and now I’m just freely taking a day off here and there when the weather is suitable for paddling!

Today I paddled a good chunk of Kent County, MD – the fartherst north I’ve paddled as part of this goal so far! I really haven’t spent any time in Kent County, Maryland so it was fun to see the countryside. This part of Delmarva has some rolling hills and it is reminiscent of my childhood stomping grounds of northern Baltimore County (minus the Chesapeake bay shoreline!).

I got up at 5 a.m. and drove to Still Pond Station Park. However halfway there I realized I forgot the delicious lunch I had packed and had to stop at a gas station for granola bars 😦 The park wasn’t much more than a tiny beach and a boat ramp and there wasn’t a soul in sight. It’s also the site of a USCG small boat station, but I didn’t see much activity at the station, even though I read that it was supposed to be manned through mid-October.

I unloaded my kayak, locked it to a fence, and then drove to Betterton Beach. From there I parked, unloaded my bike, and biked back to Still Pond. I’m glad it was only a 6 mile ride, because I’m not a strong cyclist AND there were hills!

Once I arrived at Still Pond I swapped my bike for my kayak and launched. This launch was kinda creepy. There were some uninhabited buildings (maybe from the coast guard?), nobody around, a slightly overgrown parking lot, and a TON of black vultures lurking around! I was eager to get on with my paddle so I didn’t waste any time. While the launch itself was nice, I wasn’t feeling the overall vibe of the “park” (if you could even call it that). BUT, the park had two places to launch, and they are free public access points to the bay, and public access is ALWAYS a good thing, so I’m not complaining.

The cool thing about paddling this region is the topography. I am so used to salt marshes and flat land, that I forget that the upper portions of Delmarva have a little elevation. I paddled by some pretty tall cliffs, which I haven’t really seen anywhere on Delmarva except down near Cape Charles, Kiptopeke, and Savage Neck Dunes.

Wildlife along this route was minimal, except for the vultures, cormorants, and LOTS of eagles. If you haven’t seen many eagles around the Chesapeake, I would definitely recommend this area – I didn’t count, but I must’ve seen at least two dozen, both juveniles and adults.

View of Betterton from the water

In just 90 minutes, I arrived at Betterton’s boat ramp. My average moving speed was 4 mph – that might be a record for me!

Now, years ago, I mapped out possible legs for this goal, and I had planned the section from Betterton to Grove Neck to be out-and-back style, as there is no public access at the end of Grove Neck Road. Since I was still feeling pretty strong after 6 miles, and I had only been paddling for an hour and a half, I decided to go for the additional 4 miles to go to, and from, Grove Neck.

The winds were almost nonexistent at this point, and boat traffic was minimal, so paddling across the mouth of the Sassafras River was smooth. Once I got to Grove Neck, I took photos of where I turned around, so that when I eventually approached this spot from the north, I would know how far south I needed to paddle (you know, to connect the dots, so to speak).

The last mile was exhausting. I’m not really sure why – 10 miles is usually still in my comfort zone, but I think there’s some kind of mentality that I get in when I know I’m in the last mile of a paddle; doesn’t matter how many miles I cover!

Once I arrived at Betterton, I loaded up my kayak, drove to Still Pond to retrieve my bike, and headed home. The drive home was over 2 hours, so I’m glad I paddled two legs, to make it feel more worth it! I’m thinking next time I make it a multi-day excursion and just cross Kent County of my list altogether in one trip!

I’ve now paddled 484 miles of my ~650 mile goal!

Here’s the path I took today:


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Hacksneck to Morley’s Wharf

I had plenty of other things I needed to do today, but paddling 10 miles and biking 15 sounded like a better idea! I hit the road at 6 a.m. and headed down to the Eastern shore of Virginia – Hacksneck to Morley’s Wharf. Winds were predicted to be 5-10 knots out of the NE so I decided to paddle from north to south. Here’s the path I took:

I drove to Hacksneck first, unloaded my kayak and locked it to a fence. As I unloaded my gear, I realized my trusty dry back had a giant hole it in! The bottom was falling out and nothing could possibly stay dry in it. I needed the stuff in it (first aid kit, extra sunscreen, multi-tool, etc.) so I stuffed it in one of my dry hatches instead.

I had paddled north from Hacksneck last year for my first official paddle for my gig with Virginia Water Trails, but this time I paddled south for me (not for any kind of work – nice change of pace!).

After dropping off my kayak, I drove to Morley’s Wharf. I parked my car, unloaded my bike, and set out on the 15 mile journey back to Hacksneck. I’m not a strong cyclist. And I honestly haven’t ridden my bike lately at all, except for 1-2 miles around the neighborhood with Patrick. I was dreading the 15 mile ride. None of the back roads had wide shoulders, and there were even some small hills. But I did it with no problem! Well, except for a really angry pit bull tearing across a field towards me, but he luckily couldn’t keep up with me! But I did scream – hah. I’m not a huge dog person. I’ve always been a little anxious around hyper dogs that I don’t know. And that dog looked hyper and MEAN.

Anyway, I felt accomplished even before I got in my kayak, since I finished the bike ride. Once I got to Hacksneck, I swapped my bike for my kayak, and got ready to hit the water. And that’s when I realized I had left my VHF radio in my car. This was going to be a pretty remote paddle with likely little cell signal, so not having the radio had me second guessing everything. But I decided to go ahead and launch without it.

The first 2 miles were a bit dicey, despite the wind being at my back. I think the tide was coming in against me, clashing with the direction of the wind. And then add in some random boat wakes and the water was kinda swirly and unpredictable.

But once I got around the first bend of shoreline and turned south, all was well. The wind was at my back, no crazy currents, and I cruised on down the shoreline. This part of Virginia has some stunning sandy beaches. Both right along the shoreline and also several hundred yards offshore. I could see waves breaking off to my west, and those sand bars really provided some nice protection from most of the current coming from the open bay.

I don’t normally take breaks to get out, but I did today for some photo ops. The eroded shoreline and roots in the water were kinda cool looking. And just inland from the beach was a cool marshy/pond area (I didn’t venture into the woods though to see it – probably tick central).

The one overriding thought of this trip was potential storms. I definitely have some anxiety when it comes to being outside and getting caught in a storm. The forecast only said 15% of rain (not even storms), but some of the skies out to the west looked awfully dark, and all the military aircraft in the area kept making me think I was hearing thunder – ugh!

After about 7 miles I entered Occohannock Creek, where Morley’s Wharf is located. I knew the landing wasn’t going to be right at the mouth of the creek, but MAN did the last stretch feel like forever (only 3 miles)! I was paddling against the wind and I was pretty tired from my bike ride and already paddling 7 miles. I was probably less than a mile away from the end when I REALLY started to get hungry. I could feel my blood sugar dropping, I was getting a little shaky, and I was losing strength. I grabbed for my dry bag to grab a snack and then realized it was in my dry hatch behind me! Ugh. No VHF radio, no snacks within easy reach, I really had some major faux pas on this leg! But luckily I didn’t pass out, I stayed hydrated, and I got to Morley’s Wharf safely. I loaded up my kayak, changed my clothes in the super fancy port-o-jon they have there, and then tore into my snacks!

I then drove back to Hacksneck, picked up my bike, and headed home. I might be exhausted now, but I feel accomplished, and it’ll only get easier from here. Peak paddling season is here (I love September and October the most, but I’ll paddle into mid-November, depending on the water temps). I hope to log lots of miles this year!


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Eastern Neck National Wildlife Refuge: Ingleside to Bogles Wharf

It’s May 2nd and I finally got my boat in the water for the first time this season! The Chesapeake’s water temperature is just now at 60 degrees, the forecast was 75+ degrees and 5 knot winds – perfectly timed for my day off.

Since I haven’t paddled at all in 6 months, I didn’t want to do anything super long, so I planned a one-way trip around the southern tip of Eastern Neck National Wildlife Refuge – 5.6 miles of paddling, and 2 miles on the bike, so pretty low-key excursion. What was NOT low-key was the drive there from Ocean Pines! 2.5 hours is the longest I’ve driven to go paddling on Delmarva (definitely drove further for my gig with Virginia Water Trails, but it was long for a day trip on Delmarva).

After dropping Patrick off at daycare, I made the long trek up to Rock Hall. I dropped my bike off at Bogles Wharf and then drove to Ingleside (both landings are within the refuge). Since the water was barely 60 degrees, I changed into my farmer-jane wetsuit before launching.

Although it was kinda overcast and a little foggy, it felt great to be out on the water. The bay was incredibly calm which made for a relaxing paddle. The tide and wind (what little there was) were even with me for a good chunk of the trip. Bald eagles were EVERYWHERE, a few osprey, a few cormorants, and that was about the extent of the wildlife sightings.

By the time I rounded the southern tip, the fog had burned off and the sun came out, however a few times I was sure I heard thunder. A storm never brewed, so it was probably just some large ships in the distance, or construction nearby, but my storm anxiety had me checking the radar on my phone a few times.

Before I knew it, I was at Bogles Wharf, swapping my kayak for my bike. As I was locking up my kayak, a man pulled out of his parking spot, rolled down his window as he was leaving, and said, “Wow! You really know what you’re doing! You crept right up there and I didn’t see or hear you coming!” Umm… okay? Your truck was facing me as I paddled toward you for the last 30 minutes…? Always interesting characters at boat ramps (and sometimes sketchy, which is why I carry pepper-spray and a knife with me!).

From there I hopped on my bike and rode the 2 miles back to my car. I had had plans to change out of my wetsuit, but there were a few people in the parking lot, so I opted not to and rode the 2 miles in my wetsuit! Nobody was parked at Ingleside so I changed there. Once I loaded up my bike, I headed back to Bogles to load my kayak, and I spent the rest of the afternoon exploring some of the trails at the refuge.

ouch!

I’m glad I didn’t paddle much further. I’m embarrassed to say that I was tired and blisters had started to form on my thumbs. And I got a super sweet sun burn – used sunscreen on my face, neck, and hands, but not my arms when I rolled up my sleeves. Rookie mistake! Gotta get back up to my normal 10-15 mile trips – the winter made me super rusty!

Here’s the path I took:


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Oyster to Red Bank

Last Saturday was a BIG day on this journey. I finished the last leg on the Atlantic side of the peninsula! I’ve now paddled everything from Bowers Beach, DE to Cape Charles, VA (not to mention everything from Kent Island, MD to Hacks Neck, VA on the Chesapeake side).

The stretch between Red Bank and Oyster had me perplexed for a few years. It is long (15 miles), middle of frickin’ NOWHERE, and probably pretty susceptible to tides and wind. Because of all this, I decided a few years ago that this stretch would have to wait until I had a paddling buddy to go with me. Luckily the stars aligned last Saturday to make that happen! I made plans to paddle with Lisa and Kim (Kim came with me last year from Red Bank to Quinby). They are both members of the Badassawomen of Delmarva group (aka BAD) and I knew both of them had the stamina and the gear to do a 15-mile trip. Unfortunately, Kim’s kayak had a last minute equipment malfunction and was unable to join us, but she was still super kind enough to help shuttle us from one end of the journey to the other (thanks, Kim!).

I’ve known Lisa now for 15 years. She was actually the first person to ever give me a tour of the Indian River Life-Saving Station, way back in 2006. Our career paths have crossed several times over the years and I was stoked she could join me for this piece of the trip. Since she lives near me, we were able to ride together, and I was very grateful that she had a pick-up truck to haul both kayaks – so much easier than a roof rack.

When we arrived at the boat ramp in Oyster, we unloaded all of our stuff. Holy cow. It was so much stuff. When I looked at everything laid out on the ground, it looked as though we were headed out on a multi-day trip! But when you’re prepared and have everything from hydration packs and first aid kits to paddle floats, bilge pumps, and extra paddles, it adds up quickly. Lisa then drove to the ramp at Red Bank where Kim met her to shuttle her back down to Oyster. During the 40 minutes she was gone, I enjoyed relaxing on the dock of the kayak launch, watching the tide creep up the bank, and watching at least a dozen boats launch! It was a beautiful Saturday so I could see why so many people were headed out on the water.

As soon as we launched and paddled out of the harbor, I was thrilled with how high the tide was (thanks, offshore Hurricane Henry!) and how calm the water was. It was like a mirror and very reminiscent of the conditions that Kim and I paddled last year. And despite the many boats I saw launch at the ramp, there wasn’t a boat in sight, or in earshot. If we stopped paddling for a moment, it was completely silent. It was pretty cool. I hadn’t heard silence like that in… I don’t know how long.

When I scoured Google Earth last year to examine the possible paths to take on this leg, I figured we’d have to follow the marked channel, as Ramshorn Bay appeared to be super shallow, and if you’ve followed my blog for several years, you KNOW I don’t need a repeat of the great low-tide mud incident of 2015. But due to the high tide, we were able to stick pretty close to the mainland and enjoy the pretty views of the golden, fall marsh grasses, without any issues with mud! The first 9+ miles of this trip was mostly through open water and I found myself feeling pretty grateful to have a paddling buddy. Although this stretch was absolutely beautiful, it was a lot of the same scenery – open bay to the right, marsh on the left. For 3 hours. Having someone to chat with along the way was wonderful. Sometimes when I paddle long, open-water stretches alone, particularly in remote locations, I get too in-my-head about how far I’ve gone, how much further I have to go, was that thunder or aircraft… all kinds of thoughts. But before I knew it, we were 10 miles in, and entering the marsh creeks just south of Red Bank. Check out our path on the map:

The Virginia Water Trails map shows this creek to be navigable, but cautions that low tide could make for a challenging trip. Although the tide was on its way out, it was still pretty high, which allowed us to navigate the narrow creek without any issue. Since the tide was going out as we entered the creek, we definitely noticed we were paddling against the current, but luckily it wasn’t super strong. But when we passed smaller creeks that fed into the larger creek we were paddling, the water got weird. Swirly little eddies formed. It wasn’t super challenging to paddle through, but we definitely noticed our boats moving differently from time to time. And somewhere about halfway through the creek, we passed the threshold of the outgoing tide, and felt the tidal current pushing us towards Red Bank. I was enjoying the helpful current so much that we almost missed our turn into the creek that would take us to the boat ramp! We had to back track a tiny bit and as we turned around, that outgoing tide was VERY noticeable, along with the south wind which was against us as well! But once we got into the final creek to take us to our finish line, the last mile was pretty smooth sailing.

As I sit here and reflect on the journey, the words I would use to describe this trip would be “peaceful” and “quiet”. I still can’t quite get over how quiet it was. And not just because there were hardly any boats, people, or aircraft, but also because we saw hardly any wildlife! Not one osprey, bald eagle, or oystercatcher. Not even a terrapin. A handful of gulls, great egrets, two herons, and a jumping needlefish about sums up our list. We did see one bird species though, which we guessed was a whimbrel, but I had to look it up to confirm when we got home – we were right! Kim is a very skilled birder so we definitely missed her today when we saw those guys.

Despite few wildlife sightings, the tranquility was just what my soul needed. And I am beyond thrilled to have reached the milestone of paddling the entire Atlantic coast of the Delmarva peninsula! I’ve now paddled 460 miles of my ~650 mile goal 🙂


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Terrapin Nature Park to Jackson Landing

It’s that time of year again – my annual “staycation” to burn leave that will expire at the end of the year. And of course that means logging some miles. Although this is already the second week of my 2 weeks off, it’s the first kayak trip. The wind was not cooperating last week, plus I was a bit back-logged with work for Virginia Water Trails, so last week was mostly spent catching up on the side-hustle.

Not only was it the first official kayak trip of my staycation, it was also Patrick’s first day of kindergarten! Brian dropped him off, but I still stayed at home long enough to help him get ready for school and take the obligatory “first day” photos. Fast forward – he had a great day! The kid loves school so much.

After wishing him well on his first day, I headed up the road to Kent Island. I dropped my bike off at Jackson Landing, located just east of Kent Narrows. I then drove to Terrapin Nature Park, a waterfront county park that overlooks the bay bridge. The noise of the traffic just made me feel closer to the infamous “western shore”. Although I’m originally from that “western shore” I can’t help but feel my blood pressure go up a tiny bit as I approach it. The Eastern shore has been my home now since 2007 (plus a few summers prior to that) and I totally live by the slower, quieter lifestyle of the shore now.

And as I was unloading my kayak, I couldn’t help but overhear a conversation between two early-20s women that were parked right next to me, discussing why they chose X agency over Y agency to sign with. “Well X won’t even consider you if you have a zit.” And then, “Well Y has a specific diet you have to follow.” “Oh no, I could never do that. But I don’t know why I even considered Z agency as they always choose the famous people, I would have had no chance.”

Uh, what? Where am I? Then, two other dudes walk up to them giving them info about when their galleries would be available to view and asking them if they should send the proofs directly to their modeling agencies. Oh my, I am not on the lower shore anymore! Clearly these girls just did a photo shoot down by the water, where I was about to go.

The water, however, was a 0.37 mile walk from my car, so this was the first time I utilized wheels! Nothing like a brisk walk through a flowery meadow to start off the day’s adventures!

The bay was like glass and made for super easy paddling. And there was hardly any boat traffic in the bay. I guess the day after Labor Day is not known as a big boating day, but man everyone was missing out. Such a beautiful day! And almost all of the houses I passed looked completely vacant. Like summer was over and people were already back to their busy autumn lives. Most of the houses I passed were GIANT mansions, but it was odd – the last house on the very northern tip of Kent Island was kind of a dump! Well, in comparison to the huge, manicured lawns, in-ground pools, fancy terraces, etc.

As I rounded the northern tip, the current got kinda swirly on me for a bit. I couldn’t figure out why. Maybe it was the wake of a few boats in the distance hitting the point and the tide? Not sure. I didn’t take many photos for the next 2 miles as I wanted to concentrate on paddling, and be alert for any rogue waves.

I could see the Kent Narrows bridge WAAYYY far off in the distance, and I knew I had to go just beyond it to get back to Jackson Landing, so I started to feel overwhelmed by the fact that I was not even quite halfway through my paddle. My hands and arms were already starting to get tired and the sun was starting to beat down. Luckily, there still wasn’t as much boat traffic as I had imagine on this stretch, so paddling across the open water wasn’t too tricky (once I got beyond that weird swirly current near the northern tip). At times the water was so calm, my depth perception was challenged. The subtle ripples in the water water and the occasional boat wake made for a trippy feeling. Add that to being far enough away from the shoreline to not feel like I was moving at all, it was just bizarre. I checked my GPS multiple times to make sure I was making progress – I was, but not as quick as I thought, given my new, sleek kayak and ideal paddling conditions. I still haven’t looked at what the tides were doing, but I’ll just assume the tide was against me. That’s my only explanation for not paddling the pace I had hoped for. Or maybe it was the wheels that I strapped to the back of my kayak weighing me down?! I probably looked pretty ridiculous to anyone that saw me, with those wheels sticking up in the back!

I finally got to Kent Narrows and knew I wasn’t far from the finish. I did have to wait off to the side to allow 3 boats to go through the Kent Narrows channel before crossing, but that was it. Glad I didn’t try and paddle this stretch on the holiday weekend! Then I rounded the last little peninsula and I could see Jackson Landing in the distance, about a mile away. But for some reason the last mile was KILLER. The wind and boat wakes were at my back, but I still felt like I really struggled to paddle the last mile. Again, not sure why, so I’ll blame it on the tide that I never looked up 🙂 But to be honest, it was kind of all in my head. I had estimated that paddling the 11.2 miles would take 3 hours, and I finished in 2 hours and 59 minutes!

When I arrived on the beach, I swapped out my kayak for my bike, and took the Cross Island Trail back to Terrapin Nature Park. The ride was just shy of 7 miles and was a nice combination of marsh boardwalks, and paved paths through wooded areas.

Here are the paths I took today, both kayaking and biking on the same map: